Auction Watch: Antiquorum’s ONLY WATCH 2011 Results

Auction Watch: Antiquorum's ONLY WATCH 2011 Results Sales & Auctions


The component that some people dislike about these watches with known names is a plus factor to other people. Additionally, and while this isn’t a universal rule, these brands frequently have access to really good suppliers or substances that just the biggest brands have use of. I’d say that ultimately, it actually depends on the person. Some people are entirely OK (or even eager) with the idea of wearing a watch from a significant fashion tag, along with others for equally legitimate reasons simply will not go near them. For that reason luxury style watches are among the most controversial items on the planet of watches.So presuming you are the type of person who’s excited about wearing a Chanel, or at least interested in giving it a chance, there is a lot to appreciate regarding the J12 mainly due to the black porcelain material and the design. Though in the event that you want to wear a white one that is OK also. Having said that, Chanel hasn’t released a dimensional variant of their white J12. The black versions include a few matte models, and this is one of these. Matte-finished ceramic is actually simpler to produce than the polished ceramic but was not thought to be particularly stylish compared to the polished ceramic that’s highly scratch resistant and never loses its color. Matte can also be quite hard, but the concluding leaves it only somewhat less scratch resistant than glossy ceramic – though it’s still quite hard.As I talked in the video part of this review, I feel that Chanel began to release matte versions of the J12 for two reasons. First was because they wanted to determine how they might appeal to a man demographic. Matte ceramic is surely somewhat more decorative than polished ceramic. Secondly, and I have no way of verifying this, I believe that the popularity of people giving their automobiles matte-finished paint projects was a variable Chanel might have considered. Irrespective of why Chanel started to concentrate on matte versus strictly polished ceramic, how does it look?

Auction Watch: Antiquorum's ONLY WATCH 2011 Results Sales & Auctions

As expected the ONLY Watch 2011 went without a hitch last week. It raised € 4.5 million, about USD $ 6,075,000 as of this writing. Let’s take a look at some of the results. [see all of the watches: studio pics & in-the-flesh, hands-on]

Antiquorum Auctioneers – The collection of unique 40 timepieces achieves € 4.5 million at the Only Watch Charity Auction: Monaco, September 24, 2011 – The fourth edition of the biennial Only Watch Charity Auction held at the Hotel Hermitage in Monaco on September 23, in the presence of H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco, closed with an outstanding result of EUR 4’563’000. The auction room was full in addition to the strong internet and intense telephone bidding. International participation included Japan, Switzerland, Hong Kong, China, the United States and the Russian Federation. Ronnie Wood from the Rolling Stones was also present in the room to support the auction.

Auction Watch: Antiquorum's ONLY WATCH 2011 Results Sales & Auctions

The now iconic Chanel J12 watch for (mostly) girls took yet another step forward this season in 2014 together with the debut of the new Chanel J12 G10 collection. “G10” is a term used to describe what are now often known as “NATO” straps. The Chanel J12 G10 integrates a female form of this favorite game strap in the larger J12 collection, and it is rather fascinating to see how a significant company like Chanel managed to adopt a legitimate style fad into a high-luxury, high-fashion watch.Let’s take a peek at Chanel’s G10 NATO-style straps for a moment. Even though the majority of NATO-style straps you can purchase for a few bucks are either nylon or fabric, these certainly aren’t. Going on a different tangent for a moment, it’s interesting to see how other large high-end watch manufacturers like Omega and Chopard also have jumped on the NATO strap band wagon by making their own high quality NATO-style straps — that can retail from between $100 to over $200 each. That is a far cry from the typical $10 – $50 cost most people encounter when purchasing NATO-straps online or at watch retailers.While leather NATO straps can be bought also, Chanel goes directly to alligator leather to get their Chanel J12 G10 timepieces. The “hardware” (metal components) are in 18k white steel or gold, depending on the version. Moreover, the hardware is set with diamonds. For this year at least, all Chanel J12 G10 watches possess diamonds, which can be an interesting departure from the average “pedestrian” notion around the accessible nature of NATO-straps.

Perhaps the most controversial piece was the Patek tourbillon / minute repeater, Ref. 3939, Lot 30. The “Wish Price” for this dream piece was €450,000 – €650,000. It went for €1.400.000, about USD $1,890,000! There were a lot of haters for this piece. It’s perhaps the least-flashy of the watches in the auction. It’s from a manufacture that some consider old and stodgy. It’s in stainless steel, which is particularly odd for a Patek. And the size? It’s only 33.3mm! So whomever won this piece has a great gift for his wife.  😉 All that said, it’s still a phenomenal finish for this watch.

Lot 23 was the Ikepod Hour Glass. A couple weeks ago I wrote:

“I say timepieces and not watches if for no other reason than the always iconoclastic Ikepod is presenting an hourglass (lot #23) for 2011! It’s a limited edition of one (see non-limited flavor). It’s fantastic. Something a little different from one of my favorite brands. The “Wish Price” for this item is 15,000 – 25,000. Compared to the other items in this auction the hourglass is a steal. And you’ll never need to get it serviced as long as you never drop it.”

Looks like their estimate nailed it. And we were correct about this item being a deal compared to much of the rest of the auction.

Auction Watch: Antiquorum's ONLY WATCH 2011 Results Sales & Auctions

And what of Lot #28, the MB&F Horological Machine No.4 Thunderbolt “Flying Panda?” Earlier, I wrote:

The two large horizontal cones/tubes that are the displays remind the wearer of the A-10 Thunderbolt warplane. The two pods look like jet turbines. And the “Flying Panda” angle? Well, there’s a small panda sitting atop the watch holding reigns, not unlike Ben-Hur on his chariot, or even Santa on his sleigh. Make no mistake, it’s an odd combo, but if anyone has the horological street-cred to pull it off, MB&F does. The details: manual wind, twin mainspring barrels, and 50 jewels. The “Wish Price” for this item is EUR 170,000 – 230,000.

This MB&F finished at € 170,000, frankly, rather disappointing in my opinion. I really could have seen this easily hitting €250,000, especially considering that these official estimates of hammer prices are intentionally low. Was it the economy? Maybe collectors move to the finest houses in economic downturns and times of certainty. That explanation would at least seem to partially explain the amazing result for the Patek.

Let’s check out a few of the other pieces and their results …

Lot 2: Bell & Ross, BR01 Casino
Wish Price: €20.000 to €40.000
Result: €18.000
Analysis: A bit of a disappointment. Though I don’t find it surprising. I find all of the poker and gambling-related watches to be rather gaudy and quickly-dated.

Auction Watch: Antiquorum's ONLY WATCH 2011 Results Sales & Auctions

Lot 5: Bovet, Amadeo Dragon & Phoenix
Wish Price: €180.000 to €220.000
Result: €70.000
Analysis: “Ouch” would be an understatement here. Bovet is one of those “newish” brands that has tried to conjure up a rich and deep aura around itself. Pascal Raffy has become a watch industry celeb second only to maybe the Great J.C. Biver.  In my opinion, this may be due partially to the fact that we are talking about a pocket watch. I don’t particularly care how well-heeled one is. If you drop tens of thousands on a watch, you’re going to want to wear it at least a few times. And unless you’re decked-out in morning dress, in 2011 a pocket watch is a bit of an affectation. The €70.000 here has to be a bit of an embarrassment no matter how you spin it.

I firmly believe that the world needs more elegant dive watches. Like this one, the latest version from Chanel’s exceptionally powerful ceramic lineup. Previously photographed here, now we’ve got a complete inspection from a month around the wrist with the mention H2979 Chanel J12 Chromatic. Available in 33mm quartz, also 38 and 41mm automatic, the J12 Chromatic uses the renowned Chanel ceramic expertise to make a watch with the look and feel of metal.Fellow writer James Stacey and I disagree with Ariel within our favorite size of watch. In Ariel’s hands on, his take was “I love the sense of the Chromatic on my wrist, but would love for a 43-45mm wide size” Me? I locate 38mm to be just right, but read on and see if you agree or not.By my measurements, this really is 38mm, 41 at the broadest portion of the bezel, and 46.6mm lug to lug. A slim 10.2mm thick in the center of the domed crystal, tapering to 9.5mm in the border. Crown is domed, unsigned and 6.5mm. 141 grams in weight including the bracelet, similar to metal watches of the same size. It’s also accessible 41mm, and in 33mm quartz versions.The motion is, I think, the tracteur ETA 2892, my all-time favorite. Tough, precise, simple to support, and thinner compared to 2824 to boot. You’ll discover it as the base for more costly watches, from all sorts of brands, in addition to used for modules from Dubois Depraz. By way of example, the Omega 1120 and IWC 30110 are lightly modified 2892s. There are a number of good pictures of it at the RGM 151P review.

Lot 11: Corum, Golden Bridge
Wish Price: €55.000 to €70.000
Result: €50.000
Analysis: A little low. This watch has a bit of the Richard Mille look that has been popular of late. I expected this to go for a bit more.

Lot 16: Franck Muller, Crazy Hours
Wish Price: €20.000 to €40.000
Result: €44.000
Analysis: Franck Muller pieces continue to be popular. I don’t get it.

The Chanel Code Coco set can also be admirable in the sense that it symbolizes Chanel’s unwillingness to leave its own origins as a couture fashion house for the sake of watchmaking snobbery, not to mention its devotion to a rigorously guarded individuality dependent on the aesthetic principles of its founder, Gabrielle (“Coco”) Chanel. Designing set after collection over many years that communicate a fresh idea while keeping the brand’s signature style codes cannot be a simple endeavor. The inspiration for your watch is a handbag. The case is designed to resemble the clasp of this 2.55 handbag made by Mademoiselle Chanel, with a title that comes from the date she designed it : February 1955. The layout, in 1 form or another, was produced by the maison ever since, and has certainly had a great deal of traction for the company, becoming one of the most iconic and recognizable designs in the world.
Auction Watch: Antiquorum's ONLY WATCH 2011 Results Sales & Auctions

Lot 38: Van Cleef & Arpels, Jules Verne From The Earth To The Moon Poetic Complication
Wish Price: €100.000 to €150.000
Result: €215.000
Analysis: Wow, never saw that one coming. Not really my personal taste, but a beautiful piece nonetheless.

A final thought on the diminutive Patek. Years ago a man’s watch was full-sized at 36mm, then later at 38mm. Over the last decade we’ve seen this creep upwards of 45mm in many cases (yes, Panerai and Graham, we’re looking at you). You would have to go upwards of 45mm before many people would today raise their eyebrows and wonder if a watch was simply too big. I guess 45mm is the new 38mm? So it’s not like Patek has offered a 37mm watch here and it’s being called small. 33.3mm is REALLY small. I wonder if this could be a new trend bringing us back to case-size sanity? I think it’s worth noting that purely from an engineering standpoint, putting a tourbillon and minute-repeater into a 33.3mm case is much more of a feat than doing so in a 48mm case.

And let’s look a bit more at the steel issue. The Patek, far and away the highest priced item here, is stainless steel, as is the Ulysse Nardin “Freak Diavolo.” Is this a new trend in high-end watches? Or more appropriately, is it coming back into vogue. I think that the use of stainless steel in expensive watches was first done bu Audemars Piguet with their Gerald Genta-designed Royal Oak circa 1972. Traditionally, fine watches are offered in gold or some other precious metal. Is steel back?

Here are the top 10 watches in terms of final hammer prices:

Since the 1980s, models can also be provided with a lock in the form of a dual CC logo. This cross-referencing of Chanel design codes frequently appears in Chanel timepiece collections, from the tweed-patterned straps of this Boyfriend set to the Camelia, Coco’s favourite flower, depicted on numerous dials and at the motion itself of the Caliber two at the Premiere Camelia Skeleton. If anyone has the right to introduce a watch inspired by a handbag, it is Chanel.The Chanel Code Coco in stainless steel.The Code Coco’s elongated instance incorporates lower and upper squares divided by a middle portion that looks like the grip on the 2.55 handbag. From the fundamental steel version (H5144) without a diamonds around the bezel, bracelet or dial, the top dial is simply set with a single princess-cut (square) diamond, whereas the lower dial informs time, and the dials are black lacquered. It is priced at $5,000. There is also a steel version with 52 brilliant-cut diamonds set into the bezel (H5145), along with the single princess cut. Another variant, known as the Baselstar (H5153), has an 18k white gold case and bracelet and a complete covering of diamonds.

The white ceramic J12 came out over a decade ago and has had a huge effect. Every day I see individuals, most often girls, sporting white ceramic brands and watches such as IWC have introduced ceramic versions too. The Chromatic series includes ceramics, obviously porous, and provides molten titanium, filling the pores up and infusing into the material. Seems just like Hublot’s “magical gold” process. I’m not about to destructively examine a loaner watch, so we’ll presume that the substance will age as assured, namely extremely strong and scratch-resistant. Chanel does great finish work, with perfect polishing and detailing. Ceramic bezel, needless to say, although no lume pip. This is a apparel diver, not a tool diver.Elegance is about restraint, and that is the real key to appreciating this watch. It is not overly large, or too shiny, or even overly showy with its shades-of-grey colour palette. It’s restrained. Understated.The dial is chock full of details to love: Circular finish beneath the implemented (polished) numerals. The vertical brushing in the middle section. The odd placement of the railroad-track. The minute markers on the rehaut. The window. The easy branding. The center crosshair.One thing which did disappoint me a bit is the palms. They are rhodium-plated for complete and corrosion resistance, which I like, but are simply shaped and polished. A bit of a matte finish or anhedral shape could have made them more readable.

Taking a look at the dialup, one may be forgiven for believing it’s a three-hander with a big-date screen within the first couple of seconds. However, the Chanel Monsieur de Chanel has no date complication and only tells time. What Chanel has achieved is a dial that looks like it’s a traditional layout and is highly legible, and yet manages to be different by incorporating two complications; a jumping hour and retrograde moments. You read the time starting with the huge window in the base of the dial, that’s the hour screen and then towards the top, that is the retrograde minutes and then eventually to some somewhat traditional sub seconds dial in the center. Chanel has carefully designed the displays so that the second indicator does not overlap the moments. This fairly simple yet powerful presentation is done by two polished steel hands, along with a smattering of text and numbers, in a pleasant, contrasting white.The real star of this show, is your grand feu enamel dial itself. The original Monsieur de Chanel from this past year, while impressive, didn’t have a tooth dial and the visual impact that comes with it, particularly a black dial. Another haute horlogerie technique, grand feu enamel dials require a painstaking amount of effort and time to create and are unlike any additional dial substance commonly used. The repeated use of tooth and shooting in the kiln ends in a smooth, unbroken surface which has a gentle, almost undetectable curvature to it.The Chanel Monsieur de Chanel (like the Slim d’Hermès), receives a typeface which like the motion, dial, and case, was designed specifically for it. The powerful, straight lines of this ribbon make for a nice contrast to all of the curves and curves on the dial. Like the lions head logo, this font is being utilised in all future Monsieur de Chanel watches.

Taking a look at the dialup, one may be forgiven for thinking it is a three-hander with a big-date screen within the first few seconds. However, the Chanel Monsieur de Chanel has no date complication and just tells time. What Chanel has achieved is a dial which looks like it’s a conventional design and is highly legible, and yet manages to differ by incorporating two complications; a jumping hour and retrograde minutes. You browse the time starting with the large window in the bottom of the dial, which is the hour display and then to the top, that is the retrograde minutes and finally to a somewhat standard sub seconds dial in the middle. Chanel has carefully made the displays so the minute indicator doesn’t overlap the moments. This rather simple yet strong presentation is completed by two polished steel hands, and a smattering of numbers and text, in a pleasant, contrasting white.The real star of this series, is the grand feu enamel dial itself. The original Monsieur de Chanel from last year, while impressive, didn’t have an enamel dial and the visual effect which includes it, particularly a black dial. Another haute horlogerie technique, grand feu enamel dials take a painstaking amount of effort and time to produce and are unlike any additional dial substance commonly utilized. The repeated use of enamel and shooting in the kiln results in a smooth, unbroken surface that has a gentle, almost imperceptible curvature into it.The Chanel Monsieur de Chanel (like the Slim d’Hermès), receives a typeface which such as the movement, dial, and case, was created specifically for this. The powerful, straight lines of the font make for a nice contrast to all the curves and curves around the dial. Such as the lions head logo, this font will be utilised in all future Monsieur de Chanel watches.

Watch US Dollars
Patek Philippe, Ref. 3939 $1,910,720.00
Richard Mille, RM 027 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal $696,048.00
DeWitt, Concept Watch No. 3 X-Watch $559,568.00
Bernhard Lederer, Gagarin Tourbillon $409,440.00
Van Cleef & Arpels, Poetic Complication $293,432.00
MB&F, HM4 Thunderbolt Flying Panda $232,016.00
Harry Winston, Midnight GMT Tourbillon $218,368.00
Ulysse Nardin, Freak Diavolo $170,600.00
Breguet, Grande Complication $163,776.00
Vulcain, Skeleton Cricket $156,952.00

 

Auction Watch: Antiquorum's ONLY WATCH 2011 Results Sales & Auctions

The Patek, Gagarin Tourbillon, Breguet, Chanel, Celsius, Franck Muller, Frederique Constant, Piaget, Ulysse Nardin, and Van Cleef & Arpels all beat their estimates. Of the forty watches in the auction, nearly half (18) failed to hit their minimum estimate. Overall, I think that while the auction did raise a great deal of money for charity, and gave the manufactures some fine P.R., the results show the realities of the world’s financial woes.