Arnold & Son produces some beautiful moon phase watches, and there’s a new piece in the collection with a new twist. Building on the HM Hemisphere Perpetual Moon model, the Arnold & Son HM Double Hemisphere Perpetual Moon watch joins the brand’s Royal Collection. With a second three-dimensional moon, the Arnold & Son HM Double Hemisphere Perpetual Moon watch maintains the visual appeal of previous models but affords the wearer a view of the moon from both the northern and southern hemispheres. The elegant golden constellations along with the gorgeous blue guilloché dial make sure this piece fits in just perfectly with the rest of the line and the brand as a whole.
On the opposite side of this Arnold & Son DBG Skeleton, the bottom plate of the manufacture caliber A&S1309 is shown. The motion is made from nickel silver (also known as German silver or Maillechort, an alloy of copper, nickel and zinc) that was rhodium-plated and decorated with Côtes de Genève. The wheels are satin-finished and supply a contrasting three dimensional texture to the base plate, and between the chamfered edges of the bridges, the gold gear train could be viewed. The movement is hand wound of course, which contributes to its thinness in a mere 3.9mm. It includes 42 stones and provides a 40 hour power reserve whereas the double balances oscillate at 21,600vph, or 3Hz. That is definitely a highly refined motion, but in contrast to the thickness of detail given by this skeletonized dial, the opposite side of the movement almost feels like a letdown.Despite the large 44mm case, the Arnold & Son DBG Skeleton wears quite nicely, with its slender 9.89millimeter profile easily slipping below a shirt cuff and the tapered lugs nicely hammering the wrist. The situation is constructed of 4N rose gold and the sapphire crystal has anti-reflective coating on either side to help eliminate distracting reflections. My head went to the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre versions, but in which they provide twin barrels controlled by precisely the same balance wheel, the Arnold & Son DBG Skeleton goes complete monoblock style for each dial, in the event the Hi-Fi analogy is at all apt for describing a wristwatch.
Measuring in at 42mm, the Arnold & Son HM Double Hemisphere Perpetual Moon case is offered in 18 karat red gold, though perhaps in the future a stainless steel variant will be offered. In any case, the gold with the deep blue guilloché dial is just simply beautiful. The three-dimensional moons themselves are 11.2mm, and are joined by the gold stars resulting in an absolutely mesmerizing look. Regal is the word to describe this dial, and Arnold & Son have produced a piece that will make fans absolutely salivate.
The Arnold & Son HM Double Hemisphere Perpetual Moon’s crystal is anti-reflective sapphire and the case back allows for more accurate adjustments to the moon phase by showing a third moon during eight different stages. Once set, the accuracy should hold for 122 years, after which a simple adjustment will guarantee it for another 122 years. The hand-wound movement is an Arnold & Son manufacture A&S1512 which beats at 21,600 bph with a 90-hour power reserve. The movement itself is 5.35mm thick and features 27 jewels, while the case is rated for 30 meters of water resistance. As if the case back weren’t beautiful enough, the Côtes de Genève shown throughout the movement is just lovely.
The Arnold & Son HM Double Hemisphere Perpetual Moon comes with either a brown or black hand-stitched alligator strap and is sure to grab the eye of many a watch lover. The Arnold & Son HM Double Hemisphere Perpetual Moon watch is priced at $30,500. arnoldandson.com